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Lexicon Mechanical Watches from A to Z
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[
A |
B |
C |
D |
E |
F |
G |
H - P
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Q - Z ] |
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A/h;
vibrations of the balance per hour. Two vibrations make the well-known
tick-tock sound of the mechanical watch, known as one oscillation.
Alarm;
Watch fitted with a ringing mechanism that is automatically released at the
required time.
Amplitude (Vibration);
Angle of oscillation for the balance.
Antimagnetic watches;
Watches not, or hardly, affected by magnetic fields. For the balance springs
of the balance non-magnetic nickel alloys are used.
Automat, Automatic;
Synonym for a watch
 with
automatic winding. The movement of your wrist makes the rotor (oscillating
weight) turn, thereby winding the mainspring of the watch movement.
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 Balance
spring; The hairspring and
the balance form the oscillating system. The balance spring of an Ulysse
Nardin watch consists of a thin and flat wire made of Nivarox.
 Balance
wheel; Part of the
escapement of a mechanical watch. Oscillating device which divides the time
into equal sections.
 Barrel;
The barrel contains the wound-up mainspring, hooked to it at its outer end
and which stores the energy, assuring a power reserve of 36 to 45 hours to
the watch. The mainspring is wound up manually by means of the crown
(hand winding watch) or trough the movement of the oscillating weight (Rotor)
in an automatic watch.
Bridge;
brass plate fixed on the main plate by two or more pins and screws. Between
the bridge and the plate the wheels and staffs are turning.
Bezel;
Top ring for the crystal and/or decorative ring on the upper side of the
watch case.
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Calibre;
Description for a watch movement according to construction, size and factory
origin.
Cal.;
Abbreviation for Calibre. Synonym for a watch movement defined by
construction and size.
Carat;
1 Carat = 1/24 fine gold of a gold alloy. An 18 carat gold alloy contains
18/24 fine gold = 75% fine gold content.
Chronograph;
Wrist or pocket watch incorporating an additional stop mechanism (start,
stop and back to zero functions).
Chronometer;
a watch of extremely high precision and accuracy, tested in several
positions and under different temperatures and which has obtained an
official rating certificate.
Complication;
Additional functions to a watch movement, e.g. chronograph, second time
zone, alarm, calendars etc.
Crown;
Button to wind up and set the watch to time.
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Daily Rate;
Term used to denote the difference of time adjustment after 24 hours. There
can be differences of up to several seconds per day according to quality and
place or quality and wearing conditions.
Date Display;
Display of date on the dial of a watch. In mechanical watches discs or bars
are used for this purpose, which are connected to the movement by means of
transmission wheels.
Differences;
In accordance with the type of movement used, the daily rate may vary
between -5 to +20 seconds. These tolerances are within the limits laid down
by Ulysse Nardin.
Divers Watch;
Specially constructed wrist watch for deep sea diving. Divers watches are
fitted with screw-in crowns, and they are guaranteed to withstand underwater
pressures of 20 ATM (200 m).
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Ebauche, Movement Blank;
Incomplete watch movement in principle without mainspring and balance. The
movement blanks are assembled, refined and completed with the missing parts.
Escapement Wheel;
The escapement wheel and the lever build the escapement. It is the last
train wheel.
Escapement;
Mechanism built in between the gear train and balance wheel. The escapement
transfers the power from the gear train in regular and even time sequences
to the balance, the oscillating system.
ETA;
ETA SA, leading manufacturer in Switzerland for movements. ETA movements
are used for many renowned Swiss watch brands.
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Fine Time Adjustment;
Regulating lever to adjust the daily time accurately. The majority of Ulysse
Nardin watches are fitted with a regulating lever for particularly precise
time adjustment.
Frequency;
Number of vibrations per hour. |
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Gasket;
The majority of water resistant watches are equipped with gaskets in the
case back, the crystal and the crown.
Gear-Train;
The system of wheels and pinions which, from the barrel B, transmits the
driving power to the escape wheel E, Z1 centre-wheel, Z3 third wheel, Z5
fourth wheel. E escape wheel. All these wheels are riveted to their
respective pinions, Z2, Z4, Z6.
Glucydur;
first rate metal alloy used for balances of top quality.
Gold Plating;
Electro deposited layer of gold, the thickness of which is given in microns.
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