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What are the features to look out for when purchasing a Rolex replica?
How do
I know what sort of quality I'm getting?
One of the most popular questions we get from our many customers.
Since
EVERYBODY claims that their replicas give the best value for money, how do we
know when anybody is telling the truth?
We GUARANTEE THE BEST PRICES FOR THE QUALITY - BUT - DON'T JUST TAKE OUR WORD
FOR IT. How do you know we have the best replicas, since other sellers will
claim that their watch is just as good, or even better??
It's EASY - just ask ANY watch seller the following questions:
1. Is the watch FULL, SOLID stainless steel? Or is it stainless steel coated?
All too often replicas are stainless steel coated, so after some wear, the
stainless steel wears off, showing the brass or aluminum body, which makes the
replica completely useless then. ALWAYS INSIST on full, solid stainless steel
replicas!
2. Is the watch WATERPROOF?
Cheap replicas will never hold up under water. Get caught in the rain once and
it is as good as gone. While we don't expect that a replica should be worn for
diving, it must DEFINITELY be water-proof, at least for regular swimming
purposes and for the shower and the rain! No water-guarantee - NO DEAL!
3. Is the glass SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL?
Don't settle for less than scratch resistant sapphire crystal. How do you tell?
Run a SHARP penknife across the dial when you receive the watch - if it
scratches - RETURN IT - IT'S NOT WORTH THE MONEY!
4. Does the watch have SCREWS in the links, or PINS?
Most replicas have watch links which are linked by cheap pins, which require
hammering out, just adjust the links. Don't be fooled either by pins that are
folded, and resemble screws. Solidly built, high quality replicas should have
THREADED SCREWS in the links, NOT PINS - exactly as per genuine Rolexes. These
can be nicely removed with a small screw-driver to adjust for band size!
5. Does the watch have the HACK mechanism?
All automatic movement watches from Breitling, Rolex etc, when the crown is
pulled out to set/adjust the time, the second hand stops moving - this is known
as the hack mechanism. This feature is almost never found on replicas, and is
usually a dead giveaway for a replica. Only high quality replicas have the hack
mechanism
6. Does the watch have a SOLID STAINLESS STEEL BACK with GREEN ROLEX STICKER?
Replicas with the see-through, glass back, are another dead giveaway. Genuine
rolexes have a solid stainless steel back, with the green Rolex sticker with
model number and logo - don't settle for anything else!
7. Does the watch have the SERIAL NUMBER/ BAND NUMBER?
Serial and band model number should be found on the final links/last piece of
any Rolex replica, exactly as found on genuine Rolexes. Unfortunately, MOST
replicas don't have that.
8. Does the watch have STEELINOX markings, and Serial number on clasp?
All Rolex sports models have the traditional Flip-lock clasp, with STEELINOX
engraved clearly and sharply on the clasp, as well as the SERIAL NUMBER engraved
on the clasp. A good replica WILL HAVE THIS. If it doesn't, it's not work the
money.
9. Is the watch a two-tone or all gold model? If so, IS THE DATE WHEEL GOLD, OR
WHITE?
Genuine 18k/SS and full 18k Rolexes havethe gold date wheel. If the replica you
are interested in purchasing is a two-tone or all gold model, ALWAYS ASK if the
date wheel is white, or gold - if it's white, KEEP YOUR MONEY, because that's a
dead-giveaway for a replica!
10. OTHER STANDARD FEATURES
When purchasing a replica, aside from all the above features, which help
distinguish a good replica from a bad one, all replicas should have the
following standard features:
*Screw-in crown
*unidirectional turning bezel where appropriate
*All the appropriate rolex logos, on crown and dial
*Heavy weight
If it doesn't even have the above features - it's probably worth about $2 :-)
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